Elaboración de una crema con actividad hidratante a base de saponinas de quinua (Chenopodium quinoa Willd)

Abstract

The main objective of the research study was to develop a cream with moisturizing activity based on saponins triterpenes of quinoa (Chenopodium quinoa willd), for which the raw saponin was obtained from the mojuelo; and when through various formulations, a specific one was established. Which a quality control was performed. Also, stability tests, a physicochemical and a microbiological one to know the parameters of acceptability and stability that the cream possesses. The quantification of saponins was performed by high-performance liquid chromatography methods, using purified saponins. Twenty saponin-based oil/water emulsions were formulated in which the components and concentrations varied. For the preparation of the emulsions, a surfactant agent was used (saponin and sugar ester) which provided the value required from 13.54 and 13.85. Three formulations were subjected to stability by physicochemical control means of accelerated tests for 24 days with conditions of 40 degrees Celsius and 65% of Relative Humidity. Considering an oil-in-water system with moisturizing activity due to its components. In the microbiological tests, the absence of Staphylococcus aureus, Escherichia coli, aerobic mesophiles, molds, and yeasts, ensures that there is no contamination of raw material or on the formulation. It was concluded that formulation number two is the optimal one since it presents a pleasant appearance, and acceptable extensibility, in addition, meets the required stability parameters, chemical-physical parameters and microbiological ones. Future studies are recommended to determine the hydration level of cream, taking into account the level of absorption in the skin.